People think I'm mad but they all ask me the same question "Should I Build or Buy?"

So you know what you've got to get - do you build a rally car of your own or do you buy one already built?

This is a very good question and it depends on a few things. If you've got the time, money, knowledge, space, tools, equipment and motivation to do it yourself then by all means go ahead. But for most first timers, buying a pre-built car will prove the easiest way forward - it'll get you started, out there competing, as soon as possible.

Self Build!

If you're building the car yourself, you'd be advised to strip down your purchased car to a bare shell and weld up the body seams for additional strength. This is not a mandatory requirement but in reality it's generally considered as being the norm - particularly for gravel rallying, where the stresses put on the car are greater.

You'll certainly need to strip the interior to fit a safety cage - these are mandatory (defined in the blue book) and must conform to various regulations in terms of size, strength and design. (Safety devices manufacture and stock a massive range of cages from simple bolt in jobbies to full on, weld in FIA standard!! So give these a try)

Other modifications will entail strengthening of the car and replacing certain standard items with uprated alternatives. Brakes will need uprating, along with suspension springs and dampers which, in standard form, will not normally be suitable for the challenges of stage rallying. (Just remember your budget, if you can't afford uprated items to begin with then don't worry. Focus on getting the safety aspects finished ie cage, seats, harnesses etc)

Most cars will need under-body protection fitted, to guard the engine sump and fuel tank from impact - sump guards and tank guards. (Mandatory) You'll possibly also want to move all the fuel and brake lines into the inside of the car, if they are not already.

Exhaust systems and gear linkages are often uprated or fitted with protection and/or reinforcement. Interior trim is removed, such as carpets and rear seats, and uprated competition seats fitted instead - with 5 or 6 point racing harnesses and uprated mounting points for the seats and belts. A fire extinguisher system is mandatory, as are some air horns (which must be operable by the co-driver as well as the driver).

Other minor fittings, such as bonnet pins, electrical cut-out switches and exterior triggers for the extinguisher system will be required. On top of all of this, you'll inevitably want to install some performance-enhancing add-ons if the regulations allow them! At the end of the day, the only essential stuff you need is :-

Fire Extinguisher - AFFF or Zero2000, plumbed in, with minimum 2 nozzles in engine bay (2 in cockpit for FIA requirements). Must be triggerable by driver/co-driver AND external button

Safety Cage - as per blue-book regulations

Electric Cut Off - operable by driver/co-driver AND external trigger, this should cut all electrical circuits

Tank Guards - to protect any underbody fuel tank or cell

Seats - fixed and rigidly mounted to body in accordance with blue-book regs, inc head restraints
Harnesses - 4, 5 or 6pt harnesses to secure occupants, again to BB regs

Log Book - the car needs to be scrutineered by an MSA official, just once, and given a log book for it's life as a competition vehicle

Air Horns - operable by driver and co-driver (yes, AIR horns - electric tone horns not allowed!)

Warning Triangle, SOS/OK board, 1st Aid Kit - must be carried for emergencies

All of this preparation, of course, takes time and money. Maybe you can do the work yourself, or some of it at least. The basic shell preparation should be left to a professional if you're not handy with a welder, and most motorsport specialists will be able to prepare a shell to a higher standard.

They will also know the ins and outs of the cars better and may have a few tricks up their sleaves. Taking a Peugeot 205 as an example, having it prepared by someone like Andy Baker at AB Motorsport will set you back the best part of £1500 for a fully seam-welded shell and welded-in roll cage, with all the strengthening and appropriate seat brackets in place.

Also you know with your own how everything goes together and you can satisfy yourself at the end of the day and say "I built that!"

Buying ready/part built!

There are pitfalls with buying a ready-built car of course. Just like buying ANY car, you need to make sure you're paying a fair price and not buying a bit of a duffer. Even more than standard road cars, rally cars get a good hammering it's important the you're confident the engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes and bodyshell are in good condition.

Certain aspects of the car are unimportant - who cares if the bodywork is scratched or the dashboard is a bit dirty? It's a rally car, what do you expect!? But that doesn't mean the car can be tatty in other, more important areas. Think safety - all the structural parts of the bodyshell must be in good condition. The roll cage must be absolutely perfect too. Don't buy a stage car that's had a serious shunt - even if it appears cheap to repair, chances are it won't be.

Provided you find a car you like and it's in good condition, buying a car that's already been built will definately save you cash. Of course, nothing's stopping you from tweaking or modifying it further so even if it proves to be just a good base for your project, it will save time and money in the long run. Don't forget to make sure it has a valid MSA Log Book - it's no use as a competition car without one!

DIY Summary

More Expensive than buying ready-made

At the end, you know exactly what you've got

More choice

Takes time (and a small degree of skill) to build
Pre-Built Summary

Cheapest Option

Buyer Beware - no comeback if you buy a duffer!

Restricted to what's on offer

Often comes with trailer and spares package which is handy

Gets you rallying with the least effort in terms of time and money

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